A Guide to Madrid
favorite spots in one of my favorite cities
Madrid. A burning ember, the hearth at the center of Spain. From the hills in the northeast, you can spot the almost-surrealist skyline glistening like a mirage in an otherwise empty plane. Upon a closer look, Madrid is vibrant, gritty, and full of palpable, white hot energy that culminates as the sun begins to set. With its own identity in the Spanish landscape, a cuisine of its own, and an unbeatable vibe, it’s a city very close to my heart for more reasons than one. My father grew up there, a city - a country - under a dictator’s thumb, whose regime came crashing down with his death.
My first food memory was a stolen fistful of jambón at my grandmother’s apartment, a salt bomb that awakened some sense of understanding in my palate. I first got drunk with my cousins in some park party outside of Madrid, on rum with coke and no ice. It’s where my father tends to relapse, falling back into the same current he’s been fighting since I was a child. I was lucky to know Madrid through my family, through my grandmother who’s since passed, but left a legacy of grace, her own paintings, and a fine Hermès scarf collection. As I visit Madrid as an adult, with my own acquired taste and my own time, I’ve discovered a new side to the city — one of art and inspiration, a vehicle for my own endeavors as a chef and food lover.
During my 5 week journey I only made a 24 hour pit stop in Madrid (to my dismay, it’s never enough time) and compiled this list of my favorites, my treasured recommendations for when you have only some time in one of my favorite cities.
No fleeting romances in Madrid this time — only with the city itself (cheesy huh).
But before we get into it…
If you want to travel Lucky Dinner Club style (falling in love with cities, strangers, shown around by locals, and staying in beautiful tucked away spaces…) this October, the best time to travel to the Basque region, fill this form out. I’m rolling out my dream trip for all of you to be part of next week.
Okay. Let’s begin.
Where to stay:
Hotel Casa De Las Artes
Located centrally, near one of Madrid’s main train stations as well as three incredible museums, this stunning hotel was surprisingly affordable for what it was. It's a renovated palace with a stunning façade - behind which is a labyrinth of hidden rooms and thoughtful design touches evident in the layers of moulding and terracotta stained walls. The hotel pays homage to all forms of art; with a grand library just past the indoor pool (and sauna!), a cinema, and art depicting scenes from Don Quixote in every room.
A gorgeous respite from the heat of the Madrid sun, it’s also close to my favorite neighborhood - Lavapiés - where most of my recs are located.
If you are a lunatic like me, and you pulled an all-nighter in Barcelona only to jump straight onto the 6:25 am train to Madrid, you’ll be a delirious monster by the time you exit Atocha Station. The lovely staff at the hotel accommodated an early check in for my sleep deprived self - but I still needed to kill some time. The third wave coffee scene in Madrid is one to beat, and ACID Cafe is one of the best in the city. The cafe layout is gorgeous, with an open counter and plenty of seating, and truly gorgeous patrons. Their pastries are also delicious, I’m unsure if they make them in house or outsource them, but damn their cardamom bun is better than any I’ve had in NYC.
If you’re so compelled to snag a loaf of sourdough during your Madrid stay, do so at this tiny bakery in Lavapies. Bubbly and soft with a crusty exterior - it will make for a good drunk snack to tear apart when you come back to your hotel room. They also sell tote bags with an only slightly altered iteration of Goya’s famous black painting ‘Saturn Devouring His Son’ - the god munching on a loaf of bread instead of his own flesh and blood. It’s cheeky.
Speaking of Goya’s black paintings…they can be found at the Museo Del Prado, one of my favorite museums. Compared to other museums, the Prado is not unfathomably large, and you can easily be in and out in under and hour AND not compromise feeling deeply and spiritually connected to the art there. Do not miss Goya’s black paintings (Saturn + son included), a departure from his otherwise more palatable, government commissioned works - they’re all housed in one room and will blow your mind. Hieronymus Bosch’s ‘Garden of Earthly Delights’ is also on display at the Prado, along with some of his other works.
*Honorary mention: Museo Nacional Centro de Reina Sofia is the contemporary art museum in Madrid - and home to Picasso’s devastating ‘Guernica,’ one of the few works of art to actually make me break down in tears. Plenty of Dalí to be found there as well.
There are several Pez Tortilla locations in the city, but the one in the Malasaña neighborhood is the OG, and the best. Get a vermut or a caña (a small draft beer) and order a couple of pintxo de tortilla - each huge portion comes with some Spanish bread to drag through the remnants. Tortilla is simple fare — potato, egg, and onion — but it is so incredibly easy to screw up. It should be close to room temperature with a lightly browned outside and a gooey, almost liquid center. Pez has their technique down to a science, and I can’t ask for anything more.
Vintage Shopping in Malasaña
Okay, three recs for one here. Madrid has great vintage, and it all seems to be in Malasaña. So after your Pez Tortilla pick me up, gird your loins and hit the vintage shops.
La Industria Vintage: This is a bit on the pricier side of Madrid vintage (nowhere near NYC prices though), but absolutely worth a visit. Here you’ll find gems ranging from 1930’s gowns to snakeskin pants, to racing jackets and workwear jackets. The place is huge — I could spend hours combing through the racks here.
I love this tiny shop. A highly curated collection of 90’s - early 2000’s designer pieces - I’ve never left this place without a new favorite piece (my favorite garment I own, a brass buttoned Jean Paul Gaultier puff sleeve denim jacket is from Quality Sportswear - under 150€).
Somewhere between a 90’s era Hot Topic and your *cool* older sister’s closet, Temple Susu is a TREASURE. The prices are great, and sorting through the rack of micro mini leather skirts to find the perfect one will pay off. Also a great jacket selection, and surprisingly cool jewelry. Also, the metalhead behind the counter is one of the nicest dudes you’ll ever meet.
Back in Lavapies..
A great little wine shop located in Mercado Se San Fernando, a market full of vendors - with many open all afternoon (a rarity in Spain). This shop has a great bottle selection and super friendly, knowledgeable staff who will gladly guide you in the direction of something fun. You can take a bottle to go or crack it open there, where you can snack on some freshly carved mojama (salt cured tuna) while people watching.
This is a very special place. Step inside to a room illuminated by flourescent lights that rings with the din of regulars and tourists alike laughing over plates piled high with the best seafood in Madrid. Here, you can find the elusive barnacle delicacy - percebes. These crustaceans do look strange - sort of like little phalic aliens - that you must twist and pop open in order to reveal the sweet, buttery meat. Their big langostines slathered in butter, garlic, and parsley is one of my favorite bites ever, and their white anchovies are served properly - with a handful of Spanish potato chips. It’s a simple, lively environment where you can come solo or with a group, and throw your napkins on the floor.
Chuck’s / Play Nice
Reminiscent of a Lower East Side dream, Play Nice / formerly titled ‘Chuck’s’ takes up a quiet corner street & serves up comfort food with a bangin’ natural wine list. Burgers, stuffed wings, some Thai flavors — me and Georgie of Second Sunday Supper Club sat here and schemed for hours.
The quintessential sherry bar — it’s a step back in time. The bar is stacked with sherry casks and old bottles that been accumulating dust for years. An old dog sleeps at the feet of the Grateful Dead loving bartender who appears to be donning a 21st century era pirate cosplay - he’s a tough one to crack, grumpily scribbling tourists’ orders on the bar space in chalk directly onto the bar. The sherry is cheap and the atmosphere is incredible, albeit an attraction for tourists who want a real Madrid experience. Although I assure you, it is absolutely worth it.
Oh and please, no photos allowed (except I did sneak a photo)
That’s all for my Madrid recs (for now). If you want more, just shoot me a message. I will happily share my finds.
xx
Gab